An essential part of CDMX culture is canteen. These institutions go beyond that they are space where drinks, snacks are served and sometimes food. Canteens They put a sign before and after the lives of many people, because these spaces were more than a place to shine.
In the heart The historical center of the city of Mexico There was an institution that was distinguished before and after the history of social and cultural life in the country: “Level” canteenIt is considered the oldest in the capital, and perhaps from all Mexico.
CDMX’s first bombing
This place was established in 1857, not only selling alcoholic beverages, but also offered a space to exchange ideas, bohemia and politics. “Level” It was opened in front of the National Palace, in the corner of the currency streets and the streets of Corregidora, a strategic location around it to a meeting point for officials, intellectuals and public figures.
During the second half of the nineteenth century, the canteens were not seen as simple alcohol stores. They were places for men (because at that time the entrance to women) were prohibited to discuss issues of national interest, read the newspaper, or simply resort to the hustle and bustle of the city.
In this context, “Level” He presented an atmosphere that combines elegant, common, academic and worldly. In addition to its era, another feature was characterized by the “level” is its relationship with the Independent National University of Mexico (UNAM).
The university was owned by the place for decades, which allowed it to maintain more cultural guidance than culture. In many ways, the cafeteria also worked as an extension of the academic world, especially for students, law and philosophy teachers, colleges are located a few buildings.
Cantina “Level”
importance “Level” It is more than the official channel that is officially recognized in the capital. It has become a nerve center for public and bohemian life in the country. Morshes such as Jose Vasconsilus, Diego Rivera, Ferida Kahlo, and David Alvaro Cikyros through their tables, who discussed ideas that would transform Mexican art and policy in the twentieth century.
It was also a place that journalists, lawyers, politicians and poets, who found on their walls an area free of censorship and protocols. There they can discuss the course of the country, about agricultural reforms, workers’ movements, or about the latest news from abroad. It was, in many ways, an academic tape before this category.
The cafeteria has emerged for their unwritten rules: Ordinary customers knew that the behavior symbols that moved from the correct way to ask for a drink to the way the table was shared with strangers. In addition, it gave her discreet decoration, with dark wood, old mirrors and black and white images, a immortal atmosphere.
Another great feature was the traditional snack menu, many of which are provided free with a drink: shrimp broth, lentils, gizards and pork shell in green sauce. These meals were simple, but they were well prepared an essential part of the Cantinera experience and strengthened the ring between dinner and space.
Respect for time, language and civilized discussion were part of the soul “Level”. In a city that has changed constantly, this bombing for more than 150 years was a fixed point in the collective memory of several generations.
Why did you close the “level” canteen?
Despite its history and status “Level” It closed its doors in February 2008, causing anger among historians, university students and historical center lovers. The reason for the closure was an administrative decision for UNAM, the owner of the building, who chose to save the property for other academic purposes.
According to the data of the university representatives, the goal was to convert the building into a book selling center or the cultural center, according to the objective functions of the institution. However, this procedure was seen by many as an irreplaceable loss of the incisive heritage of the city.
Various voices of the cultural field expressed their regret for closing, given that the bombing was part of the history of Mexico, such as any library or museum. “Level” It was not just a tape. It was a silent witness of ideological discussions, social changes and main historical moments in the country.
After closing, the place was restored and turned into a university cultural space, although without life and noise that characterized the old institution. Some attempts to reopen them as a historical shell were distributed in the media, but so far, the “level” remains in the collective memory and not in the tangible reality.
Although “Level” It is no longer present as a shell, its legacy lives Other historical institutions Those who managed to preserve the spirit of the tradition of Cantinira. Some of them:
- Opera: Located in 5 De Mayo Street, it is famous for its luxurious French roof similar to the French style and the presence of a bullet puncture attributed to Pancho Villa.
- Spain Hall: Founded in 1918, and this place maintains the essence of Porviriatio, with marble and ground tables.
- Cantina Bibi: It is one of the oldest in the city that is still running, it maintains a classic decoration with mirrors and dark wood.
- Golden Gallo: It is known for its generous snacks and its believers, as it is another symbolic of the capital center.
He is canteen They knew how to resist the passage of time, and adapt to new generations without losing their identity. In them, the philosophy of long hadith, homemade food, slow drink and the usual company are still. In its environment, something of a soul “Level”.
The latter of the last tourist tours by the canteens in the historic center for more people to know the importance of these spaces as part of the unfinished cultural heritage of CDMX.
the “Level” date It is, in many ways, the date of the transformation of the city of Mexico and its people. Although its doors are physically closed in 2008, the “level” is still a symbol of what the cafeteria might represent, its legacy continues in every joint conversation in the canteens that follow its example.
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