Salsa is considered the abominable tradition of the Salsa and is known throughout Vietnam, but the exploitation of water and climate change threatens this gastronomic tradition.
Bong pair After the end of the Vietnam War 50 years ago, he had to make a decision: staying in his hometown, helping his parents to maintain a family culinary tradition with centuries old Join thousands of people who leave their country Looking for a better life.
Fong chose gold and started a business MomA traditional Vietnamese season. The business is currently surviving its fourth generation chefs, headed by their son Pui Van Fu, 41,.
The fish sauce of this city is recognized by Vietnam The immortal area of the country’s heritageAnd young Pui knows what this means. “It’s not just about the quality of fish sauce. It’s its historical value,” he says.
But that tradition is threatened, not only Big corporations They form mass fish sauce. Climatic change And Overweight It is difficult to capture the essential anchors for the flavoring that is based on it Vietnam’s food and most of the southeast Asia.
How does it threaten climate change for fish?
Nutrition -rich water near the coast grows in large banks in large banks. But climate change is heating the oceans Reducing the amount of oxygen in the water.
Scientists fear that this is due to long The fish grows with a small amount of: More oxygen should be settled or modified, and they grow, and vice versa. Renato Salvattezi, who is studying fishing at Kiel (Germany) Christian-Albet University, confirms that his research About the hottest periods In the years of the earth, they confirm it with fossil records.
“If we continue this course for texization, the anchors will not bear it,” says Salvatchezi. “There is a limit to all creatures.” Breaking it can have global consequences.
The warming of the oceans threatens the sea environment and the life of the sea. It can cause the proliferation of small and low nutritious fish, increasing the costs of fishing, resulting in food.
For example, the anchors, They have a better role in the marine environment: They are the food of other fish like mackerel. They are vital to produce FishesFish is used to feed fish.
How can this problem be overfield?
Geological political tensions in the sea of controversial China -are ferociously responding 12% of the worldwide fishing– They disrupt the fishing administration. The Prostitute To pull large networks on the seasCollecting everything they see in their path, existed since the 1980s.
Even if the global warming is limited to the increase 1.5 degrees Celsius above premature positions To reduce the severity of fishing, the Chinese Sea warns that its fish will lose more than one fifth of its fish population Trial The University of Columbia was carried out by scientists in 2021.
Increase at temperatures up to -4.3 degrees in a very disadvantaged phase – Almost all fish will disappear.
It is difficult to find the right anchors
Fu, a daytime computer teacher, works hard to complete the art of fish sauce spread by their ancestors.
The anchors are usually fish Between January and March, They gather from the coast Da nang. If they have appropriate species and size, they are mixed with sea salt gently and placed in special terakota barrels. Sometimes worms or other materials are added to provide different flavors. Fu The mixture is crushed for 18 monthsStir several times a week, before draining it, and sell it to customers.
Sea salt has different flavors according to its appearance. It also goes to the amount used, and each manufacturer has its own recipe. The Pui family uses three fish parts in a salt. Fermentation time and in addition to possible Other fish They also affect the flavor of the final product.
AdvertisementBut it is very difficult to get the right anchors. The cramps have declined, And Fishermen Of the markets In all Vietnam, most of the fish they sell were regretted that the bait was considered in the previous decades.
The vague aroma of fermentation fish closes the homes of families who still produce traditional fish sauce. But the flower says that many families are Think about leaving the business Due to high anchor prices.
A tradition to be a significant export and protected
Fish -Soyce Manufacturers’ difficulties affect country plans Get more share in the world market in this flavor.
VietnamTogether with Thailand, this is the largest world exporter of fish sauce Improvements in food safety Completing the rules of profitable markets such as the United States, Europe and Japan helps to ensure a national brand that helps the world to advertise the world.
AdvertisementIt is difficult to exaggerate how deep this flavor is in Vietnamese culture. How do students living abroad talk about Its taste takes them homeAnd a great cook says that this is the basis of the flavor of the country’s kitchen.
They have their own opinion that all the different flavors of different bees are, from the best entrepreneurs to the most humble workers.
Fu says that every family has their own secrets to make the sauce. Also, almost fifty years after his father decided to stay to take care of the family business, He wants to send to his own son. But he knows whether they grow enough anchors in the sea, so that trade is possible. “For me, the fish sauce is not just a flavoring flavor. It is our craft, Our culture, a tradition You have to protect, protect, and be inherited, “he says.
