Sun Barthallomev, Surf LegendHe has deeply described one of the largest chapters that he lived for the rest of his life: Your struggle against skin cancer. Australian and Wave lovers have promised to “raise awareness.” “Six more chances” Surfers experience this type of disease if the necessary precautions are not taken.
‘Robit’ Surbil explained his first steps, and he did not know the damage caused by the sun. ”We don’t know much. Good brown, long yellow hair, a good look ... That’s what we all searched, but the skin fell from you due to burns in two days. On a christmas vacation, I woke up because I was pasted on the lips and when I opened his mouth, I was bleeding because the wounds were opened. ”
“At the age of 17”, Wayne admitted that I had already received a “first call” from the doctor, and if he continued the same rhythm of life “he would not reach the age of 30”: “At the age of 17, my mother took a meeting with the dermatologist and my mother took a meeting with a dermatologist. He told me that he would not come alive at the age of 30. He had a set of tumors under one eye, and if they were not treated at the right time … “.
He also said that the surfers should have a “Infecting skin cancer” is six times more probable Because they reveal the sun for several hours: “In the 72 summer, I had the purpose of being the best surf in the world. I won the title in Queensland. Of course, I burned that summer. When I trained for six hours, you face the sun’s reflection … and you are burning more and more.”
Visit to the doctor who saved his life
Wayne, before several weeks of journey, visited his osteopsis and warned that he had a place on his back. Finally, a few hours later, they confirmed that this was a “melanoma”: “Before a trip, I visited my osteopsis, and its assistant warned me that I had a stain on the back. He sent the model to the pathology. The next day, the next day, the next day, I had a message that this was a melanoma. What would have happened if I had gone to this trip? This is pure luck, and in 18 months another came out on my back. I reviewed my whole body, but on my back, logically, I didn’t see anything. This is something that scared. ”
Create awareness in your current life
Surf world champion in 1978, now, “loses dreams” every time he notices something he does not like in his body: “Every time I see something I don’t like in my body I lose sleep. I’m very careful. The damage is already over, and there is no doubt in it, but if I expose myself to the sun, I have cream layers and hat set.
Finally, former athlete, Botgastil Winning skin cancer. He is very frightened by the boys’ murderer. If you have this problem, it is something that will change your life completely. This is not fun, but it can prevent it. ”
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